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L’Equant Hemant: Orientalist Haute Couture

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Calais lace, silk, brocade, magical creations… The city of Calais in lace and fashion pays homage to the magnificent Haute Couture house L’Equiante Hemant by tracing back 18 years of creations. Journey to the wonderful Orient!

Gallery conceived as a journey

Upper Textile – Lequant Hemant – © Ashish Arora

Founded in Paris in 1981 by Didier Lecointe and Hemant Sagar, the haute couture house is a luxury and haute couture designer with a shimmering and refined style, with a mixture of textures and cultures as variation around sarees and its drapes characterize all 33 collections. Produced between 1984 and 2000.

Coats, evening gowns, suits… The exhibition invites us to travel: to the east dreamed of by the duo of creators whose imaginations are fueled by the themes of Shalimar Gardens, Darjeeling Express, Perfumes of the Orient, Palace of One Thousand and One Nights, Birds of Paradise… Many universes, many fantasies, Many wonderful creations. Each of which also bears a name that evokes the journey of “Ibn Battuta’s Journey”, “Atlantis”, “Jade Winter” …

Lecoanet Hemant gown


Pataca pant suit, men’s collection 2006 – Lequanette Hemant – © @Johann Rossellot

The magnificence was heralded from the first show dedicated to the theme of the Silk Road. All eyes are drawn to the splendor of a purple embroidered woolen coat and a fur shawl lined with silky satin and studded with brocade. Excellence in brocade culminates in the theme “The Splendor of the Maharaja” where we discover Japanese, Chinese and Tibetan brocade. We see the wonderful Tibetan brocade jacket embroidered with peacock feathers and multicolored threads with a mink collar. From the collection of Le Voyage d’Ibn Battûta, he is also a model for the exhibition poster.

One can only marvel at the pen’s work in the show dedicated to Birds of Paradise as Maison Lecoanet Hemant joins Lemarié’s workshops. The distinction of these skills is evident in the skirt embroidered with heron and duck feathers, and the latex bustier and lace Leavers dress from the Atlantide collection presented in 1999.

Lace reveals itself

Pheasant’s feather above Lekwant Hemant – © Rahul Arora

Lace work is very personal. It’s lace that “is more exposed than seen,” according to the duo’s designer. In the middle of the exhibition, you’ll see three panels of lace that reveal three ways in which Maison Lecoanet Hemant worked. “These are different expressions of lacework. We have changed its appearance a lot by dividing it to reconstruct it differently, by working it as an inlay or application, but above all, by combining it with other fine fabrics in a game of hidden/exposed.”
An extraordinary exhibition where we see a magical world draped in precious fabrics.

Practical information

“L’Equante Hemant, Orientalist Haute Couture”. Until December 31, 2022.
The city of lace and fashion. 62100 Calais

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